Córdoba was the jewel of Al-Andalus and feels it still. Skip Seville's crowds: here you'll wander Judería's narrow alleys, get lost in patios dripping with flowers, and eat rabo de toro (oxtail stew) in centuries-old taverns without tour groups.
Arrive and drop bags at hotel near Plaza de Maimónides (heart of Judería).
Enter Mezquita-Catedral at 2 p.m. (fewer morning crowds); spend 2 hours tracing the striped arches.
Dinner at El Choto (family-run tavern, 1970s décor) for rabo de toro and local Montilla wine.
Early walk through Judería's winding streets: Plaza de las Tendillas, the Synagogue, and leather-maker workshops.
Patio crawl in Casa de los Azulejos and neighbourhood mansions; visit Museo de Al-Ándalus (Islamic museum).
Aperitif and tapas at Bar Santos (standing room, €1.50 per plate); salmorejo (creamy gazpacho) essential.
Tour the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos fortress; climb the towers for Guadalquivir valley views.
Walk the Roman bridge (Puente Romano) at sunset; explore Torre de la Calahorra museum on the far side.
Dinner in a riverside merendero (simple eatery); grilled fish and local gazpacho.
Visit Palacio de Viana (44 patios, some with fountains and bougainvillea); linger over 2 hours.
Museo Arqueológico de Córdoba: Roman mosaics, Islamic pottery, Jewish gravestones.
Flamenco show at a peña (local club) in Judería; dinner included with €25 ticket.
Bus or car rental to Montilla (45 min); visit Bodegas Álvarez Barrero for sherry-style wine tasting.
Picnic lunch with Montilla wine, local cheese, and jamon; return via small white villages (pueblos blancos).
Rest feet; tapas dinner in Plaza de la Corredera (Córdoba's main square) at any corner bar.
Return visit to favourite Mezquita corner; revisit a neighbourhood patio you loved.
Shopping for leather goods, ceramics, and regional wine in Judería before transport.
Depart or extend with drinks at a rooftop café overlooking the Mosque.