Riga punches above its weight: one-third of its architecture is Art Nouveau, rents are one-tenth of Berlin's, and the food scene is exploding. Wander 13th-century Old Town streets that feel untouched, then dive into microbreweries and underground galleries.
Arrive and settle into a guest house in Kronvacietis (Quiet Centre district).
Walk Alberta iela (Alberta Street), the showpiece of Art Nouveau: 42 buildings designed 1901–1906.
Dinner at 3 Pavāru Restorāns for modern Latvian cuisine; explore Lido self-serve for budget eating.
Explore Vecrīga (Old Town): St. Peter's Church (climb the 72-metre tower), Powder Tower, and townhouse museums.
Spend 2–3 hours at Centrāltirgus (Central Market): walk all five pavilions, sample local cheese and rye bread.
Craft beer crawl in Imanta brewery district or at Lido's beer bar; grilled chicken and potatoes for under €5.
Visit the Latvian National Museum of Art (free entry for EU citizens; €5 others) in a Brutalist structure.
Explore Katrīņa Sēta, a courtyard of artist studios and galleries in Grīziņkalns; watch potters and painters at work.
Underground techno or indie gig at a Maskavas iela warehouse space; cheap beer, local DJs.
Take the train from Riga Central (€1.50, 45 min) to Sigulda in the Gauja River valley.
Hike between Sigulda Castle, Krimulda Castle, and Turaida Castle; picnic by river cliffs.
Return to Riga by sunset; dine at a riverside taverna in Old Town.
Stroll Daugava embankment; visit the Museum of Occupation of Latvia (€6) for Soviet-era context.
Last-minute Art Nouveau hunting in quieter streets; stock up on sourdough rye bread and chocolate.
Depart or extend for live jazz at Ala Pagrabs (beer cellar bar).