5 Days in Tbilisi
Tbilisi is still rough around the edges—part Soviet, part ancient, part reinvented. Five days captures the Old Town's winding alleys and Metekhi Church, a soak in the historic sulfur baths (Abanotubani), wine bars on backstreet cobblestones, and Caucasus mountain glimpses from the fortress. Georgians are warm, Georgian wine is natural and unfiltered, and prices are refreshingly low.
What to expect
- Narikala Fortress: 4th-century citadel overlooking Old Town's rooftop maze
- Abanotubani sulfur baths: soak in waters locals have used for 1,500 years
- Metekhi Church & equestrian statue on the Mtkvari riverbank at dusk
- Wine Street (Enoteca district): natural wine bars, khachapuri, local crowds
- Shardeni & Sioni cathedrals: twin spiritual heart of Old Town
- Gonio Fortress day trip: 2 hours south, Ottoman-era stronghold on the Araxes
Day by day
Settle into Old Town guesthouse; walk to Metekhi Church on the riverbank.
Climb to Narikala Fortress; explore ancient ramparts and courtyards.
Wander Old Town alleys—stumble upon hidden courtyards; dinner at a family-run khachapuri hole-in-the-wall.
Book a private sulfur bath room in Abanotubani; soak in steaming, mineral-rich pools.
Climb to Metekhi statue; cross the Mtkvari to the new boulevards.
Wine crawl on Enoteca street—tastings at Rooms Hotel Gastronomique or natural wine bars; feast on lobio (bean stew) and pkhali.
Visit Shardeni Cathedral (11th century, rebuilt after Soviet times) and nearby Sioni Cathedral.
Explore puppet theatre ruins, tobacco shops, and artisan studios in backstreets.
Sunset rooftop drink at a reconstructed caravanserai; Georgian feast with polyphonic singing.
Minibus south 2 hours to Gonio Fortress; tour Ottoman ramparts and riverside setting.
Return; walk the Mtkvari embankment north toward Peace Bridge.
Modern Tbilisi: dinner in Vake district at a hip paliare (Caucasian tapas) bar.
Dezerter Market (Shukapori): locals selling fresh herbs, khachapuri, and dried fruit.
Last sulfur bath or Old Town café for khinkali (dumplings).
Depart Tbilisi.
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